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King side pawn advancement,weak,not weak?
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deeper_insight 13-Sep-15, 04:09 |
 King side pawn advancement,weak,not weak?There seems to be a difference of opinion regarding the pawn movements early on in the game or midgame from different masters on GK.So,in time,I and others should add to this thread for deeper discussions. So let me begin with the info transfer,a discussion between hogfysshe and myself.Its interesting how some masters can actually have a wrong or negative influence on others(like my friend Todd)and kind of mold the way they proceed in most or all of there future GK games.Moving pawns in front of their King is one example.Sure it can be a bad thing to do,but then,many,many times a very excellent thing to do!!!It all depends!So,for any master to simply say things like..."avoid or do not move your King side pawns early in the game or mid game",is simply BAD ADVICE!!!!!!Hey,I say it the way it is(reality).Some GK players dislike me for writing the truth,but i'm use to it!Can you write it in a different way TA and be more cream puffy nice about it?Answer:No.Any master should know better to not realize the difference between classical chess and modern viewpoint chess and should not give only one sided advise based upon their own styled ways of playing because they succeeded best in that style of play throughout GK.This again is a "tunnel vision"way to teach others who may want to explore the more modern way to approach chess in the early or mid game.And early pawn moves in front of your King can be an ultra strong thing to do,depending upon what the other side has done in a weaker way in their game like blocking in their own Bishops or tying up their Knights.So it all depends! As,per my discussion from the snapshot thread: Well,easy19 brought up some interesting points.I will have to get into more detail with a separate post soon.But for now,lets say that easy19 is speaking primarily of the classical development as opposed to the Modern development.If Freddy was even remotely correct,then the fianchetto with g3 and b3 modern games would never be played by the masters and GM's...and we all know this is not the case,since it is widely played on the high plateau levels,including myself.It really boils down to a game to game basis.One must ask themselves which is the lesser evil,getting a weaker pawn structure and weaker King side,or getting eventually mated through too passive a defense?In the diagram above,black has weakened his King side through premature pawn advancement,tying up his Knight and blocking in his Bishop.When these things occur,then a more aggressive pawn storm or small conservative King side pawn advancement for WHITE outweighs the risks.In blacks case,he failed to move a pawn so that his Knight or some other piece did not get pinned.One must advance their King side pawns with very careful thought in mind.You can easily see where black failed to do this but white did not. One of the rules to advance King side pawns would be if the consequent weakness can or cannot be exploited by black Bishops.In the diagram above,blacks Bishops are no threat to whites King side advancement of pawns.So,again this "allows"for a safer advancement of whites g pawn and/or other pawns. Some other guidelines to follow with King side pawn advancement: 1. Look at the situation in the center when you are considering a flank attack. A. If the situation with the pawns and pieces in the center is open and fluid, in almost all cases a flank attack with pawns in front of your K is a mistake B. It is a mistake because when the center is open and fluid your opponent can counter attack in the center. The surest way to --stop, thwart, cause it to fail-- a flank attack is to counterattack in the center. 2. If the situation in the center is blocked by pawns and pieces and cannot easily unblocked, then a flank attack by advancing the pawns in front of your castled K will succeed. A. Your opponent cannot counterattack in the center if it is blocked. B. If your opponent attempts to unblock the center it is imperative for you to keep the center blocked. Also,let us not forget about the Grob and so many other flank King side pawn flank game openings that may not be theoretically as sound as a regular e4 or d4 opening,but are not as weak as easy19 and others may have you believe.Slightly weaker does not mean dangerous or should be avoided at all costs.This would be a flawed thought.Modern theory has proven time and time again that moving those King pawns with PROPER development,has either no weakness or not enough weakness to cause alarm.Classical chess views will differ from this fact,however.So its boils down to your style of play and how effective you are using the modern or classic. Specific ad more detailed info on this subject is not for this thread.But more to come in the future! |
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deeper_insight 13-Sep-15, 04:37 |
The insignificant small guy that packs a mega punch.... By the way,notice how the center is blocked up,closed game and blacks Bishops are no threat to white?Now look at my advise in the above first thread post here and compare that advise to the diagram above.Is the pawn movement weak or strong on whites side?Answer:Very strong!Sure it is mid game,but those pawns on whites side started much earlier! Transferred from another post(and related to this thread on weak or strong King side pawn moves): Hello all.Time to discuss my last diagram snapshot test from above.This will all relate to this newest thread on weak or strong King side pawn movements as well. All good answers above like 1.Re1,Qd2 or even Rc1.All of those responses will be ok and will work and keep whites initiative advantage,but are not considered the next best move.So thank you Joe,Todd and Ron.There is a slightly better move that should not be delayed and will immediately place a "pin"pressure on one of blacks major pieces.Know which piece?Blacks Knight on h5! Now,remember that theory/concept of edge file Knights?Remember about what I discussed via point value flux of the pieces?Remember what has more value in closed games...the Bishop or Knight? In master and above positional strategy,sometimes the most subtle and less obvious moves have much more immediate value than spotting a lone h6 pawn(as in this diagram)and placing some pressure on that pawn....(like with Qd2).As to the Rook moves mentioned above,those moves can be delayed several moves later AFTER FORCING some immediate pin neutralizing effects on blacks h5 Knight.When one scans the board,one of the very first things you look for is which of the enemy's MAJOR pieces has a significant point value degeneration.There is only 1 of blacks major pieces that stand out like a sore thumb....that h5 Knight of his.The decreased black Knight value originates from the fact that edge file Knights do indeed many times have decreased value due to their lack of mobility being reduced to 50%. So,lets think a bit.If you could find a way to temporarily limit blacks Knight to a point where it is next to being useless on the board,pin it a bit,but not necessarily pin to capture,what move could you do?I mean,blacks Knight is not placing any pressure on whites pieces,has reduced point value and due to his edge file movement,black has indeed lost a bit of tempo since he could have moves a good # of other pieces and failed. The move for white? 1.g3! This move,in effect,prevents blacks h file Knight from moving forward into whites territory and he cannot move backwards!In essence,that subtle g3 pawn move has froze blacks Knight,unless he wants to commit suicide by moving to square f4.If white was to move to 1.g4,then an escape path would be 1....Nf4,not a good move for white. So,the temporary or long term positional pin of a major piece of your enemy is practically the same as removing his piece from the board!And do not forget that Knights in this diagram have more value in the closed positions than the Bishops.Looking at it deeper,you can see that blacks f6 knight has decreased value due to a bit of restricted movement.....the knight can basically only move backwards with theoretical loss of tempo.And blacks h5 knight will now have a pinning value of considerably less.Whites knights have much more freedom of movement,are not edge Knights and do indeed control the central d & e squares much more effectively. So many of you were seeking file pressure,pawn pressure,Rook connects,supports and more.This is all good but not on the level of priority that locking in or creating a lock pin/partial pin to reduce the fighting power of blacks pieces would have over the other moves suggested. Yes,that little insignificant g3 pawn move is more important than any other move on the board....for your first move anyway. BUT,I do not want anyone in the club to take my word for it! I knew the move would be 1.g3 and had a sneaky suspicion that the major chess programs would agree.So I ran 2 tests.One with infinite analysis for 2 hours using Komodo 8 with 10 cores running and Stockfish using 4 cores for 2.5 hours. Both world class programs of over 3200 rating agreed that 1.g3 was the next best move! I'm fairly certain that others like Houdini would also agree,depending upon the ply depth analysis you set. Blacks response after 1.g3 fluctuated a bit,but most agreed to a 1....Bc8 which does increase the value of blacks Bishop through additional diagonal pressure to compensate for blacks frozen h Knight,but it has no significant impact on whites initiative. In the diagram directly above,I would NOW feel fairly confident that I would win this game as white.The central control,the square count and much better positional Knights than blacks,gives white a very comfortable game. I estimate that very few players below 2200 would have seen that g3 move,so don't feel let out or bad!Many players look for "action" or immediate fast target squares like enemy pawns or file pressure,and will easily overlook the ways to "squeeze" their enemy's major piece(s)...and without showing any immediate signs of a tangible result,they will miss the better move....the small,insignificant little pawn guy. |
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deeper_insight 13-Sep-15, 08:10 |
King side pawn advancement in blitz.... Sure,there are better examples,but I just woke up late Sunday morning,with this weak pawn move scenario in mind,added in some weak opening Knight moves of mine(on purpose) and came up with a deadly brew that my chess "victim" opponent merrily consumed like a martini laced with cyanide.As that beer commercial goes on TV...."drink hardy,my friend"! The following is a full 10 minute blitz game with zero increment.More than enough time for my opponent to throw 10,000 pitch forks at me at supersonic speed and make me look like a 6 foot piece of swiss cheese,but he failed miserably.Game was resigned by my opponent in about 6 minutes after I swept his pieces off the board like a gale force wind against a balsa wood three foot one pound ship at sea.And take careful note that my opponent was 1873 rated!Not too tiny in the rating dept! [Event "GameKnot Blitz"] [Date "2015.09.13"] [Round "-"]10 minutes,zero increment [White "tactical-abyss"]2312 [Black "diffworlds"]1873 [Result "1-0"] 1. Nc3 e5 2. Nb1 d5 3. Nf3 Nc6 4. Ng1 Nf6 5. Nf3 e4 6. Ng1 Bg4 7. Nc3 Bb4 8. Nb1 O-O 9. h3 Bh5 10. c3 Ba5 11. g4 Bg6 12. a4 d4 13. g5 Nd5 14. e3 d3 15. b4 Bb6 16. a5 Qxg5 17. axb6 axb6 18. Rxa8 Rxa8 19. h4 Qf5 20. h5 Na7 21. hxg6 fxg6 22. Bh3 Qg5 23. Qg4 Qxg4 24. Bxg4 Nb5 25. Be6+ Kf8 26. Bxd5 c6 27. Bxe4 Ra1 28. Bxd3 Nd6 29. Rxh7 c5 30. f4 c4 31. Bxg6 b5 32. Nf3 Nf7 33. d4 cxd3 e.p. 34. Bxd3 Ra6 35. Na3 Rd6 36. Nd4 Nh6 37. Naxb5 Rd7 38. Bc4 Ng4 39. Nf5 1-0 Chess PGN viewer to use(if you want).Just copy/paste game in viewer without the 1-0,then you can go move for move on your own nice PGN board for this game or any other: chesstempo.com So where are we at after move # 9?Notice the start of my h pawn move.Notice my illusion of weakness and how I enticed my "victim"to move into my kill zone like a spider into a nice web.Same with move #10 and beyond.And move #15 where I classically trapped my victims Bishop. by move #9: Hmmmm...I did not even castle throughout the game!No need to. But the lesson in this game is that advancing pawn moves on either flank side(K or Q)can have devastating effects,especially if one chooses a weird game like my Reverse Alekhine game bringing in my opponent like a fly to honey with his Bishops and more.A blocked center and either non existing attack Bishops or no Bishops in the endgame of course,help me considerably. Now,some GK players will say,"well try that against a 2000 rated or higher and you will be killed TA!"Really?What cookie cutter brainwashing did you learn that from?I have destroyed as high as 2400 rated with weak Knight opening moves and flank pawn moves,trust me.And I can bring up the games in no time for proof.Many player's of higher than 2000 rated have been so "conditioned"to believe their own "illusions"of what must be on the board or failure will ensue,that they remain in their own fairly tale book throughout their chess life.I'm here in this club to burn that book of theirs right in front of them!Then give them a stern look and then laugh. Now,sure,my opponent above is not 2000 rated,but he is close!But when opponents encounter the strange and unusual like my Reverse Alekhiine,well,how are they to proceed?Most fail,even 2000-2100 rated.And a scant few above 2100.Sure many 2100 and higher in long corresp,may(and I say may beat me) as opposed to a 10 minute blitz game(obviously),but still,a 10 minute game is practically an eternity to be catching supersonic pitchforks,that is,if one knows how to throw the pitchfork at me,not the barn!!!!Get the analogy???? So I went a bit overboard with my gallows humor in this game,but it was for a reason.That simple,quick blitz game shows many hidden and non hidden lessons that play AGAINST the classical approach to playing.Better examples would be to show you games without blitz and glitz and glitter.But I did give you one above this blitz game for starters. Am I telling you club guys to begin playing like I just did in the above blitz game?No,but my exaggerated and against proper theory opening moves gives a lesson within itself...which is to expect the unexpected and prepare yourself to understand the proper ways to proceed against the illusions of weakness I present here with blitz.Sure,you can try what I do,but I recommend only unrated games in corresp or blitz! My scoffers outside of this club will simply say...well,your not proving anything TA!Your just showing your senior master play against much weaker opponents!I always laugh at that ridiculous statement.So where do you draw the line scoffers?1900?2100? See,if I beat a 2100-2200 player in these Reverse Alekhine games,then my scoffers will say...."well,try that against a 2300 player"!!!See readers?It never ends. The main point here(in the above blitz game) is that a 1900 rated player should truly be able to kill me with my intentional weak moves in the opening.But why did he fail?His theory of proper chess development lacks considerably.Instead of playing aggressively,he should have WAITED PATIENTLY UNTIL I WAS FORCED TO STOP PLAYING WITH THOSE KNIGHT MOVES AND PAWNS,PLAYED DEFENSIVELY WITH CAUTION and slowly defeated me. So,this 1900 player as well as the less rated must study their theory with proper positional strategy to destroy my "tactics".It can be done and I beg to be destroyed as I always say! |
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1 - gaining space - the squares behind the pawns are usually better protected by the side that owns the pawns, especially in positions where the center is closed, hence that side's pieces have more space to maneuver and prepare for attacking or get better development, while the opponent's pieces at that side of the board may be hindered 2 - opening lines - after exchanging pawns, the heavy pieces will be able to get to the files where the pawns were and be more active, also diagonals may open up for the bishops / queen 3 - creating pawn weaknesses / strong points - outposts (squares protected by pawns that are unattackable by opponent's pawns/pieces), holes (squares the opponent can't control with a pawn), backward / isolated / doubled pawns, and so on - all of which can be used as strategical features to base subsequent play upon 4 - breaking up the opponent's king's protection (by either creating pawn weaknesses or driving defending pieces away) - like the previous, but with the purpose of an attack on the king. In all cases, you should try to understand the purpose(s) of such moves, and ideally be able to anticipate dangerous ones and prevent them, or defend properly. And just a parting piece of wisdom for all to acknowledge: "He that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow." I write this not to discourage absorbing knowledge. I write it merely as an observation from my own studies. Just when I am looking at a piece of theory or a concept in the game of chess, I see contradictions come up that refute what sometimes I have just read. This shows the difference between an amateur and a master. A master has the ability to discern the situations where the contradictions come into play, and when to stick to the theory he has studied for so long. |
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deeper_insight 14-Sep-15, 16:21 |
Deleted by deeper_insight on 14-Sep-15, 16:32.
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deeper_insight 14-Sep-15, 16:32 |
However and of course,in that unusual blitz game above(second diagram),the theory above does not quite fit the shoe!As to "when your opponent starts advancing a pawn"....my game advanced no pawns at all and I was dead in the water until a much later move #9!So,the instruction to use against my "illusion of weakness" is not the same as "understanding the purpose for such moves,dangerous ones,ect"...since there were no moves except returning my pieces 8 times into their original squares!The exact principles to follow against such unusual moves are not necessarily textbook! I just have not showed it yet from the other side.That will be coming. But lets think about that diagram above that I played against that almost 1900 rated player.Blitz or no blitz,he was lost...period.I short circuited his brain...period.Many players simply do not know how to proceed against some of my psychological games.That game and my moves are not as weak as it may appear.Sure,it was only a 10 minute game,but that is besides the point.And I did indeed prove a point! My butt should have been kicked easily in 10 minutes!My close to 1900 rated player was simply not prepared for the highly unusual.Maybe an Alekhine,but not "my" kind of Alekhine! Over extensions,holes and other weak spots,ex-ray and more should have been avoided by a player of that rating.So,you can well imagine if the game was a 5 minute game! See,all the advice from myself,you Jeremy,Shamash and others is an excellent thing to do.....but applying it,assimilating it properly,remembering it and defining it is another story.I have played some opponents over at the Marshall that read 100's of books on theory and openings.But their rating is still relatively low and they still fall for things like my last blitz game above with silly backwards Knight moves.But they should not be,if they "assimilated"the theory they read up on hundreds of times!So,I present these little blitz gems to show you guys,half with a smile and half with a more stern..."what have you learned 1900 player....nothing"?????I also have the same style game in my long corresp GK games that I can dig up if you want.So some players still lose with 3 days to think about the move!!!!(and that is with my "Reverse Alekhine"game!).Call it my experiment in what you"should"have assimilated,but failed to do so! Yes,some players learn from failure and losing,but many never learn,and that is simply a cold,hard fact. TA |
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1.Nf3 d5 2.Ng1 e5 3.Nc3 d4 4.Nb1 Nf6 5.Nf3 Nc6 6.Ng1 Bc5 7.Nf3 d3 8.cxd3 Ng4 9.e3 O-O 10.Nc3 f5 11.h3 Nh6 12.Qb3+ Rf7 13.Be2 f4 14.Ne4 Bb6 15.Neg5 fxe3 16.dxe3 Na5 17.Nxf7 Nxb3 18.Nxd8 Nxa1 19.O-O c5 20.Bd2 Nc2 21.Bd1 Nb4 22.Bb3+ Kh8 23.Nf7+ Nxf7 24.Bxf7 Nxd3 25.Bc3 e4 26.Ng5 Bf5 27.Bd5 h6 28.Nxe4 Bxe4 29.Bxe4 Rd8 30.Rd1 c4 31.Bxb7 Rd7 32.Ba6 Rc7 33.b3 Nc5 34.Bxc4 Ne4 35.Bb2 a5 36.Rd8+ Kh7 37.Bd3 Re7 38.Rc8 h5 39.Rc4 g6 40.Bxe4 1-0 chesstempo.com for copying and pasting the game to view. My opponent thought I was an amateur until probably move 11 or so. Then his game fell apart like TA's opponent did. That was fun. Might try that again later. |
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1.Nc3 Nf6 2.Nb1 g6 3.Nf3 Bg7 4.Ng1 O-O 5.Nc3 Re8 6.Nb1 d6 7.Nf3 Nbd7 8.Ng1 e5 9.Nc3 d5 10.Nb1 c5 11.Nf3 e4 12.Ng1 Ne5 13.h3 d4 14.e3 dxe3 15.dxe3 Qxd1+ 16.Kxd1 a6 17.Bd2 b5 18.Kc1 Be6 19.Ne2 Nc4 20.Nf4 Nxd2 21.Nxd2 Bd7 22.g4 g5 23.Ne2 h6 24.Bg2 Bc6 25.Nb3 c4 26.Nbd4 Bb7 27.c3 Nd7 28.Nf5 Nc5 29.Kc2 Nd3 30.Nd6 Re7 31.Nxb7 Nxf2 32.Rhf1 Rxb7 33.Rxf2 Re7 34.Rd1 a5 35.Ng3 b4 36.Nf5 Ree8 37.Rd7 Bf8 38.Nd4 Re7 39.Rxe7 Bxe7 40.Bxe4 bxc3 41.Bxa8 cxb2 42.Bd5 c3 43.Rxf7 Kh8 44.Rxe7 1-0 |
