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Think like a Master.Some general overviews in positional strategy...
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 Think like a Master.Some general overviews in positional strategy...First lets examine some advanced positional facts regarding positional "controlled space".There is a simple fact regarding most of the game positions on the board,especially by midgame.The fact is that the player who controls more space on the board,has an advantage.So basically,this means that your pieces are on a specific square or "attacking" a specific square.There are exceptions(like hypermodern games)but this will be covered in the future.The key is to use a simple math trick and count the attacked squares on both sides of the board.If your side has less pieces that are attacking your opponents side,then the strategy is to INCREASE the pressure on those squares that are not giving threat to the enemy,especially towards the center,or to push your pawns forward without necessarily overextending them!If you have more positional space than your opponent,then following through on positional development varies by a game being open/closed and how to develop and/or exchange based upon where your opponents weakness's exist. So lets get back to the "math". In this diagram which I copied from an older Larry Evans book of mine,illustrates the simple math concept behind immediately determining who has the "spacial advantage"....white or black.And as I mentioned,knowing who has this advantage can then determine a better "chess recipe" to properly develop your pieces.I could have set up any random position and used it as an example(counting spaces) in this math test,but this one is already done and saves me time! So the math formula to assess who has better spacial advantage is to simply count the number of squares attacked or occupied on each side of the board and see who has "more"for the spacial advantage.In the above diagram,black attacks four squares on whites side of the board....(d4,e4,f4,g4).White attacks seven squares on blacks side of the board...(b5,c6,e6,f5,g5,h6). The square b5 is counted twice due to the pawn on c4 and the Knight on c3. So the math follows that white has a huge spacial advantage of 8 to 4.Black is indeed more cramped.So what would be one immediate thought that comes to mind?Black is more cramped and the game is closed in the above diagram,right?So in addition to proper development,a positional goal would then be to try and maneuver your pieces(on the white side) and perhaps exchange or threaten with your Bishops... blacks Knights in a closed cramped game.For in the diagram above the Knights reign in supreme and taking them away from your opponent only increases the value of whites Knights.On the other hand,black may have the same idea,so in a case like the diagram above,I would not suggest exchanging whites Knights,even if it means retreating them temporarily with a temporary "loss of tempo".(Something I will discuss at a later time!) More to come later.This is just one of many positional strategy ideas I have coming up in time. |
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"good players pay as much attention to all the empty squares on the chessboard as they do to all the occupied ones. In this way they are able to decide in advance which are the important squares to dominate." This is pretty much an idea that you must keep in mind as your game progresses.When you combine light and dark square control in this math formula by counting who has the advantage,this will give you a plan of approach.One approach may be to amplify your dark square control or increase your white square control which is lacking... depending upon the determining "math factor"of your advantage or disadvantage.See the link on dark/light square control in the club posts for more help on this subject.This all involves long term positional goals,not "tactical"ploys...although "tactics"can be intertwined as a subset of the positional strategic goals you have in mind. |
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Some overview in positional strategy: the pieces influence the center, the line pieces are on open lines, the pawn structure is good, and the King's role is appropriate to the phase of the game. A bad position is one where: the pieces ignore the center, the line pieces are on closed lines, the pawn structure is weak, or the King's role is inappropriate. In a game between masters,an advantage in any one of these factors can be enough to win the game. Keep in mind as well that:White has a weak square at f2 and Black has a weak square at f7. These squares are weak because they are protected only by the King, who is not a fierce fighter until the later stages of the game.Learning to exploit these 2 squares through opening up files or by placing constant pressure on these squares(with a Bishop for example)is one of the keys to winning successfully more often than not. Your King must be prepared to be very "mobile"in the endgame.Many,many players have no concept of lengthy King mobility and how to be able to sweep it across the board.When there are many pieces on the board, particularly the major pieces, the King is weak.When there are few pieces on the board,the King is strong.Just keeping the King behind your castled position in an endgame can many times prove fatal.But moving it out correctly can be a huge advantage.If your opponent has,for example,a black squared Bishop present in the endgame,it may be best to move your King about on primarily the white squares for better King safety while at the same time moving your King towards the weakened pawn structures as mentioned below.This may involve sometimes more than 20 moves alone,just with your King.So be prepared. As to pawn structures,this can take pages to explain relative to positional play and will come at a later time,but some different pawn structures are below. Pawn structure – describes features of the positions of the pawns. Pawn structure may be used for tactical or strategic effect, or both. Backward pawn – pawn that is not supported by other pawns and cannot advance. Connected pawns – pawns of the same color on adjacent files so that they can protect each other. Doubled pawns – pawns of the same color on the same file. Half-open file – file that has pawns of one color only. Isolated pawn – pawn with no pawns of the same color on adjacent files. Maróczy Bind – formation with white pawns on c4 and e4, after the exchange of White's d-pawn for Black's c-pawn. Open file – file with void of pawns. Passed pawn – pawn that can advance to its eighth rank without being blocked by an opposing pawn and without the possibility of being captured by a pawn on an adjacent file. Hanging pawns- A pair of pawns on adjacent files that are separated from all other pawns. Its extremely important to note that the current view is that hanging pawns are weak if their side is behind in development but strong if their side is ahead in development.Many simply believe that hanging pawns are simply weak,and this is false. Pinwheeling pawns-Where you can pinwheel or pivot a major piece off of a pawn to launch a sudden attack or force an exchange to improve your play like a Knight over a Bishop in an open game.Or it can be used as a "pinwheel" to move forward and backwards perpetually causing a series of attacks or even a drawn position in some cases where you are normally losing. www.youtube.com www.youtube.com Structures with mutually attacking pawns are said to have "tension".They are ordinarily unstable and tend to transpose into a stable formation with a pawn push or exchange. Play often revolves around making the transposition happen under favorable circumstances. Pawn structures often transpose into one another, such as the Isolani into the Hanging Pawns and vice versa. Such transpositions must be considered carefully and often mark shifts in game strategy. |
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Think like a Master. Some general overviews in positional strategy... 13-Oct-13, 09:19 (Recopied from my old club): Re: Think like a Master. Some general overviews in positional strategy... @tactical_abyss: Before I begin, I should state that I do not consider myself to be a master by any means. Currently I see myself as a high level advanced player, low level expert at over the board, which has led to some of my successes here at gameknot. And I am sure you know most of what I have to say already, but some things I feel I need to point out after reading what you have posted. Most of the concepts you outline can be found in several treatises on chess. Of course, there are other more advanced ideas within the realm of tactics, which were not covered in your synopsis of this thread. The 'Think, Play, and Train Like a Grandmaster" trilogy from Alexander Kotov is priceless. Pawn Power in Chess, by Hans Kmoch is a classic as well. Both of these are in my chess library. It is important for one to realize that there are no 'absolutes' when playing a game of chess. These guidelines cannot be taken as indisputable, and depend on the specific circumstances. The danger is if a player is to consider these 'guidelines' as absolute, the player begins to develop prejudices which hamper development. This is what makes chess so difficult...just when a player 'thinks' they understand the concepts, they are introduced to the contradictions...uggghhhh! For example, double pawns are considered to be bad, but not in every instance. The same can be said about isolated pawns or backward pawns. Simply because these materialize in a game does not necessarily make them 'weak'. Normally, they are, but in some instances, this weakness is an illusion. It takes time to differentiate what is actually weak and what is actually strong. The isolated pawn is another 'weakness' that can be exaggerated, and in many cases the isolani is a trump card. Unless these weaknesses can be exposed, they are not weaknesses at all...perhaps they become distractions and can cause a player to end up in chasing rabbits. Eliminate prejudices: Does one like Bishops or Knights? Does one avoid doubled pawns? Does one avoid all pawn weaknesses? Does one prefer an open game or a closed one? Does one prefer 1. e4, 1. d4, etc. Does one put a high value on material superiority? To get over this, one should examine prejudices and then do the exact opposite, for a period, to maintain objectivity in the game. There are between 11 and 13 tactical motifs found in a game of chess. Decoy, interception, forks, clearance sacs, etc. It pays to know these motifs and employ them during play. The very best book I have found for this area of tactical study is the Encyclopedia of Chess Combinations by FIDE (also in my library). Another great book, by Yuri Averbach is called Chess Tactics for the Advanced Player (again, in my library). After all chess is 99% tactics, based on the corresponding positional aspects of any position. Positional play and tactical play are interconnected, and have to be studied together for improvement. One additional note on the isolated pawn. There are two types of isolation that can occur with pawns, dispersion and distortion. Dispersion is the most commonly known, where the pawn is not supported by another pawn on an adjacent file. However, distortion can be just as bad. Distortion occurs when the pawn is separated by ranks instead of files and the option to protect the pawn is not available (normally because the pawn has been advanced too far up the board). This is just like having an unprotected piece that can be targeted...after all it will have to be protected by a piece, which is not economical (pawns support pieces, not the other way around). For those of us with real jobs, who have to work everyday, it is difficult to ascend much beyond that of a low master. Time is a valuable resource and chess is much too demanding for most of the general public...and full of disappointment on the way to improvement. I play chess to keep my mind sharp and I compete in tournaments to see where I am mentally. I am much too inconsistent to every think that I could become an IM or GM, but I am satisfied with my level of play and with how chess fits into my life. wrecking_ball 07-Apr-14, 10:59 [ report abuse ] Thanks Ken, As I mentioned above in my first post in this thread.... "In this thread,I will slowly but surely be covering a significant amount of subjects".Unquote.So of course,there will be alot of things not covered in this thread(as of yet)as you pointed out,this is only logical.So its not expected as of yet.Also,I have to see a perpetual interest in my posts before I begin to get into more detail on individual,more defined subjects like dispersion and distortion as you pointed out. The topic on the first line of this thread was..."general overviews"....not specific and detailed overviews like your mentioning.The reason is simple:Start with some general overviews like I mentioned and yes,can be found in many sources,then AFTER I see an interest,questions or input from others that are much lesser rated than you and I Ken (1200-1800),then discussions like clearance sacs and more should be added in time.To even remotely begin to list a host of more detail(as you point out) is jumping the gun a bit. Its like giving or trying to explain Algebra to club members before they studied the basic math. And it takes me hours and days to even begin to detail out much of what is NOT covered in this thread...so I only progress into additional and more evolved concepts if 1.I see a true interest with a few club members to want to learn more and 2.After explaining my additional detail to some club members,I see that they actually understand the basics first before moving on.(like good and bad positional thoughts I listed above).Otherwise,it will simply be a waste of my time and energy. In addition,I am not a tutor or mentor as mentioned many times,so at the level of most of the club members,keeping most of my posts in pure "general form"is actually better than more complex and evolved concepts for now.I had gotten into more complex and detailed info in a past club of mine and had a number of club members leave due to getting lost in only some of the basic moderate theories on positional strategy. But Ken,please feel free to train,tutor or mentor anyone in this club as you wish,I will not stop you,I actually invite it! Another example is my 1600+chess books in my personal library.I have many books that I can discuss and list in my book thread,like the one you mentioned above,but ONLY AFTER I begin to see a more active interest in the book subject.So far,there has been little interest in that area,so I will not get my typing fingers too sore quite yet!Understand? Take care for now. TA wrecking_ball 07-Apr-14, 11:07 [ report abuse ] several recopied posts responses from the old club... checkcharlie 13-Oct-13, 12:58 Great stuff, keep it coming! I find these resumes very informative, and it is sure to up my game. tactical_abyss 13-Oct-13, 13:11 Hi Charlie! Hello Charlie!Haven't heard from you for a bit.Now Charlie,do you really understand the concepts of dispersion and distortion on isolated pawns at your level(without going on the net and seeing the answers)?Just asking. Now you know why I do as I do and just touch the surface for now.Just acknowledging some of the video's I listed in this thread(with any club members)shows a positive interest and might allow me to go a bit farther.Otherwise.... TA checkcharlie 13-Oct-13, 13:18 [ report abuse ] No, dispersion and distortion are new concepts to me! I refer simply to an isolated pawn. tactical_abyss 13-Oct-13, 13:25 [ report abuse ] I knew that you probably would not have that info tucked away yet and thats absolutely ok.I was just making a point on how I distribute my posts in general form and then progress when I think its appropriate.I could,for example,start an entire thread to "clearance sacs"or"dispersion",but would that be logical at this point?Not really. TA tactical_abyss 13-Oct-13, 13:48 [ report abuse ] Also Charlie, I could begin to simply post a link for example on dispersion/distortion: And then get into all kinds of details and examples. chessprogramming.wikispaces.com But just understanding the link before I say anything,would be somewhat monumental as compared to easier things like trying to determine who has an advantage through simple math like Evans and my input above.This,I deem more important as a first step. In addition,many players in this club are probably not even aware on the weak squares of f7 and f2....and why.So dispersion might come about in a more advanced class.But junior high has to graduated first! darknite13 13-Oct-13, 16:21 I understand... And from coaching middle/high school students, I have learned how exhausting it can be to just explain the basics of the game to someone, and how to keep their interest in the game. But I adapt to the individual players much better now, as I rather do 10% talking 90% play to students I coach. This gives a hands on experience and from what I see gives a much better result field to new players and leave them hungry for more... hogfysshe 13-Oct-13, 18:34 "...the concepts of dispersion and distortion on isolated pawns" new to me also. too bad these forums don't have a "views" column so those who post topics can have that small piece of feedback. I've at least looked at almost every topic in the club forum and have gone beyond looking in several cases. For example, I watched the Danny Kopec video when it was first posted. I've tended to at least click on most of the links that have been posted. I play through most of the posted games and read the associated commentary. I've also noted several 'topics needing further study,' "light and dark square control" for example. unfortunately, life has been interfering with chess since May and I haven't been able to follow up on MANY things I'd like to follow up on, including plenty of things outside this club. There are a number of topics in these forums I'd like to explore further but there is only so much time in the day and I haven't been able to study the topics and possibly come back with any good questions or comments. TA, please know that I'm likely to come back to topics at various points in the future. So, I appreciate your efforts now and will appreciate them then. tactical_abyss 14-Oct-13, 05:09 Thats true Ken, That coaching while playing against "students"of chess is probably the best way to learn...I totally agree.The situation in the Elite Chess Club,however is that I am not here personally to play/coach and specifically teach the chess club "students" as I have mentioned many times.There are other clubs listed on GK that set up tournament's against other clubs,against the club masters like easy19(freddy)was(is?)doing.I personally do not have the time for personal games due to unforeseen circumstances like playing my own tournaments/games on several other chess sites,playing for tournament $$ though the USCF and burning the midnight oil at the Marshall in NYC.I have mentioned in the club introduction,however,that any members are free to play against one another for learning purposes and personal coaching.Thats why I suggested that other 2200+players join.This way,those masters can take that portion of the personal one on one or group training over(if they want),annotate and get deeply involved in a game....move for move. I have kind of set up this club more like a thick "reference book"to key in various areas of theory and psychology that other clubs do NOT have and that club members and others outside the club can use as "polishing tool"in their games,perhaps while being coached elsewhere.Many of the topics in this club,you will NEVER see in any of the other clubs.In reality,then,it is possible that some of the help tips I list in this club may even supersede the abilities of some of the coaches I see on GK,since many of the coaches are considerably less rated than you or I...like below 1700 in rating.So the level of true help is relative depending upon the circumstances.A 1700 rated player for example annotating and teaching a 1400 player(for example) on GK,may never begin to touch the surface on light/dark square control and many other issues.Heck,i know a few 2200 players that do not take the time to do this either!So personal coaching may be the best in most circumstances,but not all situations,it depends. So,in summary,I will cover many topics as I have already done in this club but I will never be able to scrape together and "list"all the appropriate and complete a through z subtopics on a specific chess subject,no time for that.So the next best thing is my kind of general "guide'to help your game along,with added links,my input and an occasional book or DVD set that I have or know someone else to have that suggested it.In this club,as I have mentioned in the intro...the club is not a "tournament springboard"as other clubs are doing.Club members are free to set up games against one another for learning purposes,however.I may,for example,interject a comment from time to time on a move,but only on occasion and sporadically...not as a coach or mentor.My goal is solely NOT to specifically teach like a coach,but to reference a higher order of theory and other reflective thoughts on many chess issues that I simply know will not have crossed the minds of many of the lesser rated players in and out of this club.In other words..."food for thought".There are,for example many 2200+ coaches that will tell you to never play a Basman Defense based upon statistics and will never coach ANYONE that defense.Is that a correct way to teach and/or coach,even if the player is 2000 rated?I say,the "coach"is wrong and incorrect.There is a higher order of thinking beyond the idea of "stats" and avoidance of some openings and defenses.Same with a Sodium Attack game.I enjoy going AGAINST conventional chess wisdom and showing the viewers a "different side"to winning methods that a "coach"would FROWN upon and NEVER teach a student!!!!(Not all circumstances of course,but a few,from time to time.)So would I be a good overall mentor and coach...probably NOT!I take 2500+level ways of thinking in theory and intermix them with the 1400 level players way of thinking,(for example)and give a weaker player some food for thought about kinds of styles and moves that no coach would suggest.What they do with it later in life is up to them.If it destroys their game,well then so be it!But me thinks that it will help a few insightful players from time to time.Recently,for example I had a 2234 rated player claim that her "Berlin Wall" was impregnable and was only a major drawing tool.(See my post on "Defeating the Berlin Wall").I eat this stuff up like lobster!Its my goal to prove even MASTERS wrong!And the game indeed was a loss for her. There is even a multilesson in my Q sac blitz games!Now who on Earth as a coach would teach you games giving your Q away and showing you how to win being 9 points down in the opening?Ha ha...no coach,indeed!So there is a "lesson"to learn even in using unconventional wisdom...(my method!).In some situations,anyway!But of course,I must combine standard wisdom and theory as well as a kind of balance. So,I will interject some of the general and obscure with seriousness and sometimes my own personal twisted gallows humor methods.But nothing I ever do will be a "precision"way of directing a "student"or coaching anyone like a book you mentioned above could do.This I leave up to any chess student with an occasional suggestion by me. So this is what makes the Elite Chess Club different than others.I may not be the best coach or mentor and I am not going to teach games like a regular "better"coach may do or accomplish.My goal is to not teach but give you INSIGHT into the game in ways you may never have thought of,combined with,of course touching on some regular theory progression into the game that a "standard"coach would take the time to do,but I do not have the time to do. As to the standard learning/teaching approach which involves much more detail than I can supply,again,I suggest and will allow anyone in this club(like you Ken)to do that for me if you wish or any future masters to do that...which is what I suggested in my intro. TA tactical_abyss 14-Oct-13, 05:36 Todd, True.I also do not have the time to do as much as I would like in this club.I will obviously miss some issues in the true detail I would like to invoke,like for example,light and dark sq control and books ect,but eventually over the months and years I will come back and fill in some of the blanks. But not necessarily,if I see no "surfaced interest"in a specific subject,through club member input,questions,ect.For put yourself in my shoes for an instant.Why should I write 5 long pages of depth covering light and dark sq control or "dispersion and distortion" if i'm not really sure it will either be read,understood or if there is no input and/or questions or even interest from club members?Thats a ton of work for me!And the number of club members yet is small unlike other clubs to involve much more input.In my opinion,the average rating of the club members is at a level where many of these subjects should really not be covered quite yet,even though I could write 5 pages on dispersion,for example!So until I see more sparks coming from members,questions,input,output,more posts from other club members on various chess subjects...I will continue to do a kind of "general overview"on some chess subjects that pop up in my mind. I myself,besides the other chess activities i'm involved with through the USCF take much of my time up,including the fact that I work a nightshift(11pm to 7:30 AM mon-fri)which tends to burn me out so much that you are all lucky I can say anything in this club to begin with! So,i'd love for someone else to teach and annotate others in this club,fine with me.But as to club tourneys and individual game play/teaching,I have no interest or time in that to be honest!But Todd,i'm glad you are reading over many of the posts...i'm sure you will pick up a few pointers from time to time.Hope I have helped a bit over the months! TA wrecking_ball 07-Apr-14, 11:09 [ report abuse ] Here is the direct old club link: |
