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euro_pop_legend 12-May-23, 23:08

Middle game dilemmas,what to move next? ragnarhairybreek had asked me for some advice on what to do next when there seems to be no apparently good move or unknown move to make.I'm going to take it from the standpoint of the middle game,so here goes:Flipping the board,as ragnarhairybreek suggested is one good idea.I have done that countless times as well.You must make believe or imagine you are NOW the player on the opposite side and you want to find ways to develop or crush your original color.But the question of what to do next in sometimes a dead,locked position or simply not knowing how to proceed "next" is actually quite complex and would take a book 5 inches thick to cover only about a quarter of all the info needed in positional theory and strategy when there is no apparent move to be made for that precise position.Actually most of the time there is something to move in a positional advance(or retreat in almost every position),but many players below master level simply will not "see" it.I'll list just a few things below,but it only touches the tip of the iceberg.More comprehension/insight,especially in the mid game relative to a 1400+ player like you,ragnarhairybreek,will have to come from various study of the theory in many of the club posts as well as a good # of books recommended already in the club or by Shamash.Keep in mind,that the posts on things like..."light and dark" square control and counting squares has much to offer on "theory formulas"on what to do next,when in doubt.Who has most of the square control?You or your opponent?Is there a move to increase your square count control or strengthen the dark squares on your side(example)? Here is some more general food for thought.I get more detailed and specific on the weekends!My time is limited lately,especially during the week,but i'm sure this will help a bit: Keep in mind much of the following info is more positional strategy,not sudden tactics: For closed type of games,including many 1.d4 games: 1.Try to make improvements on any weaker placed piece(s).This may be,for example,a Knight placed by you on an edge file...like a or h.The point value of said piece,many times is weaker due to restricted movements.So even retreating that piece and placing it more centrally can induce increased initiative. 2.Wing advancement and control:Take a closer look at your Q or K side wing area.Just a subtle pawn move from h2 to h3(example)maybe be all you need.Its kind of a delaying/waiting move when no more major piece moves seem to be the choice.In turn,your opponent may then indeed,overextend himself with a Bishop or Knight move,where you could swiftly attack him from your now stronger flank side.Just be careful which side you advance.Pawn advancements can also weaken a K or Q side...which is another chapter in the 5 inch book! 3.Look ahead for any optional plans that you can muster up.How many moves,for example,will it take for your Knight to reach a potential forking position even though the position is still not allowing it,but it may open up in 10 moves. 4.Find ways to stop or hinder what you perceive as your opponents plan of attack or even a potential weak area of your board...."holes"(example).Again,this may just be a pawn move. 5.Strengthen the center of the board when possible.This does not always mean "occupying"those central squares,but perhaps using a Bishop fianchetto,even a doubled pawn centrally placed near the center can strengthen the center in yet closed games. 6.Trying to initiate "multiple plans" of attack on both sides of the board,so if one does not work,the other might.Again,it may be pawn thrusts on both wings or double fianchettos. 7.When all else fails and you see nothing to move a "positional lock" may be in place on the board with a waiting game on both sides.This is a sign of a possible draw.In cases like this,many times what I call...."King shuttling" or "piece shuttling" may become necessary.Which is a kind of neutral move that does not give any strength or weakness to your side.You may end up,for example,just moving your King from square b1 to c1 and maybe a Knight or Rook move back and forth to its initial square.This is a waiting ploy,to possibly psychologically entice your opponent to overextend his pieces.I have done this many times in my Reverse Alekhine games and other games you can find in this club. For more open games,including 1.e4 games: 1.Finding ways to open up any files,ranks or diagonals,especially the b and g files. 2.If playing the white side,seek ways or build ways to concentrate attack on blacks weakest square...the f7 square.Or if playing the black side....whites f2 square. 3.Seek out any opponent weakness spots,holes doubled centralized endgame pawns,ect. by focusing a plan of attack on those areas which in turn will cause a "deflection"to remove opponent attacks and possibly retreat of opponents forces losing tempo on your opponents side. I can add a ton more to the list above,but this will have to do for starters.

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